11/5/10

Buy a Tux!



By now, you probably know that you should own a tuxedo rather than rent. It's important, however, to know the right reason for owning a tux. Some guys say that renting a tux is a waste of money and liken it to renting an apartment when you should buy a house. Those guys need to get their priorities straight. Men should own tuxedos because rented tuxedos look terrible, period.

Knowing the correct reason to own a tux is important because, as with most things in life, your motivation affects your approach. If owning a tux is about saving money to you, then almost any tux will do. But owning a tux is not about saving money. It's about looking your best on those occasions when everyone cares how everyone else looks and exhibiting your personal style while adhering to one of the most restrictive sartorial templates that a non-incarcerated man faces.

To accomplish that, there are two things you must do: (1) thoughtfully select the right tux and accompanying pieces; and (2) plan ahead to get them. I won't spend much time on the first part because GQ handled that quite well two years ago and I recommend that you follow their advice (tuxedos don't change with fashion as much as other menswear, so don't worry that GQ's guide is two years old). I would just add three things:

(1) Don't bother with the notch lapel jacket and necktie. Today's first-time tux buyers come from a generation of men who seem to always be asking: "How can we make this less formal?" In that spirit, they have made notch lapels and full-length neckties popular for tuxedos. If you're considering this combination, I recommend that you save time and money by sticking with a regular black suit that you already own. Satin notch lapels and a shiny necktie aren't worth the effort--you still look like a guy in a black suit. If you insist on notch lapels, wear a bow tie.

(2) Avoid three-button jackets. Buttons suggest utility when your tuxedo should imply elegance and refinement. Two buttons will work, but one is better.

(3) Don't get too trendy. The truism that style is superior to fashion is absolutely true when it comes to tuxedos. So avoid the super skinny pants and razor-thin lapels. If your tuxedo is as precisely tailored as it should be, you'll look plenty sharp regardless of changing trends.

As for planning ahead, it's critical that you start assembling your tux well in advance of when you need it because there are more elements involved than you might realize. Unlike renting, when you buy a tux all you get is the suit. So you need a tuxedo shirt. You may need a stud set, depending on the shirt. You need cuff links. You need a bow tie. You may want a cummerbund. You may need shoes. Most stores don't carry wide selections of tuxedo-specific items, so it will take time to find exactly what you want and some items may have to be ordered. Your tux and shirt will need to be tailored. You will need your shoes shined.

To handle all of that, you should start assembling your tux at least 3 weeks before you need it. That gives you one week for shopping, one week for tailoring, and one week for fine tuning. With holiday parties happening as early as the first week of December, you should probably start assembling your tux now. Here are a few looks to get you motivated:







J. Crew - Tuxedo jacket ($495) and pant ($235). Available @ jcrew.com.

















Ralph Lauren Black Label - Tuxedo ($2,150). Available @ ralphlauren.com.

















D&G - Tuxedo ($1,195). Available @ nordstrom.com.

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